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Texas Department of Agriculture
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Story by Jessica Dupuy
With additional reporting by Tracy Howard
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In “Sky’s the Limit” from our July/August issue, we explore Austin’s emerging craft cocktail, coffee and spirits scenes—but while these industries have just recently found their footing, Austin’s contemporary viticulture landscape set root nearly four decades ago.
Ed and Susan Auler, parents of vodka entrepreneur Chad Auler, were some of the first to plant vitis vinifera in the heart of the Texas Hill Country outside of Austin, with their Fall Creek Vineyards planted in 1975. They are also to thank for lobbying for the Hill Country wine region’s appellation designation—the first in the state of Texas. Fall Creek Vineyards was soon joined by a handful of other vineyards across the region—including Becker Vineyards—in kick-starting the story of Texas wine. Today, the Texas Hill Country AVA, just west of Austin, is the largest designated viticultural area in Texas and the second largest in the States.
Austin-based Jim and Karen Johnson of Alamosa Wine Cellars were the first to stumble on what has become the signature grape of Texas, the Spanish Tempranillo. The Johnson’s first planted Tempranillo in the late-’90s at their Hill Country vineyard. Their gamble on the dark red grape yielded one of their more popular Tempranillo blends, the “El Guapo”—easily recognized by the historic Texas Horned Toad on the label. In recent years, Texas has seen an abundance of Tempranillo from wineries across the state, with monumental success.
Less than 40 miles west of Austin, wine enthusiasts will find Spicewood Vineyards, where new owner Ron Yates, 32, has quickly gained notoriety. After the Yates family purchased Spicewood from founders Ed and Madeleine Manigold in 2007, Ron Yates quickly planted more Sauvignon Blanc and Tempranillo with the intent to produce the two grapes as his flagship wines. But he’s also branched out with a few other varietals including Viognier, Albariño, Muscat and Graciano in hopes his harvest will yield an array of different flavor profiles to work with.
“Texas gives you such different grapes every harvest,” says Yates. “Our biggest challenge is the weather. We have some basics that we know we’re going to make every year, but in the end, we have to take what Mother Nature gives us. It’s a limitation in some ways, but it’s also a fun challenge because we get to change it up every year and deal with what the harvest season brings.”
Spanish for “the handsome one,” this supple Tempranillo grown on the Edwards Plateau offers notes of fresh blueberries with an underlying masculinity of savory leather and juniper. Pair alongside grilled meats and veggies. $18, alamosawinecellars.com for availability
Located about an hour and a half west of Austin, this German-inspired estate (pictured above) is one to behold, both for its striking 10,000-square-foot stone winery and for its opulent Viognier (one of the estate’s more than 20 different offerings). Stunning floral aromatics and ripe stone fruit flavors make this a winning accompaniment to spicy Asian dishes. $15
Produced in only the best vintages, this blend of 96% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Merlot and 1% Syrah marks only the sixth release since the wine debuted in 1996. Rich and concentrated, this wine exudes ripe cherry and dark berry flavors with a trace of oak-flecked spice on the finish. It’s approachable and food-friendly, but also sturdy enough to withstand a few extra years tucked away. $40
A Sangiovese crafted from the estate’s first plantings at their “Helen’s Block” site more than a decade ago, this Italian-inspired wine is meaty with cranberry, plum and tobacco flavors. $20
About 30 minutes northwest of Austin city limits you’ll find this bright-eyed Sauvignon Blanc, complete with loads of stone minerality, complementary citrus-y and fresh melon. A splash of Semillon plumps the mouthfeel, making it the perfect candidate for pairing alongside oily fish and roasted pork loin. $17, spicewoodvineyards.com for availability
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Read about Austin's cocktail, beer and coffee scenes in the July/August 2011 issue.
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